...To understand organic wine, one must first pay a quick visit back to sixth grade science class.  I promise it will be relatively painless, barring any flashbacks of trips to the principal’s office.  Wine is the result of two inseparable, yet distinct processes; viticulture and vinification.  Viticulture concerns the vines and their ability to produce grapes in the vineyards, and vinification addresses the chemical reaction that converts the sugar in the grapes to alcohol, made possible through the presence of yeast.  The yeasts eat the sugar and then pass gas, quite literally!  The byproducts of the yeast’s consumption of sugar are carbon dioxide gas and alcohol, giving us the fundamental ingredient that differentiates grape juice from wine. 

When wine producers seek USDA certification for organic wine, they have to adhere to the regulations set forth by the USDA for both viticultural and vinification practices.   The USDA’s National Organic Program (NOP), created in 2002, mandates that neither chemical additives in the vineyard nor sulfur in the winery can be added to a wine for it to be USDA certified organic wine.  That seems simple enough until you realize that there only one or two bottles of USDA certified organic wine on the shelf, if any, in a culture currently obsessed with everything “organic”.

Contrary to what the shelves may be suggesting, there are hundreds of organic-minded wine producers, who limit or exclude chemical fertilizers and pesticides from their vineyards in favor of nature’s new A-list stars: manure, weeds and natural predators.   These natural protagonists not only produce grapes with far less chemical residue, but also protect the land from harsh treatments, increasing its longevity for the future production of grapes or other crops.  In spite of the proliferation of organically-farmed vineyards, there is noticeable lack of certified organic wine.  Why would these green-minded wine producers go to such great lengths to produce organic grapes, but intentionally choose not to create an organic wine?  It seems that most of these winemakers with organic grapes draw a line in their organic sand and intentionally do not comply with USDA’s vinification stipulation of adding no sulfur to the grapes and/or wine.   Although their decision prohibits them from carrying the elusive seal of organic certification, they may disclose that the wine is “made from organic grapes”.   This widespread decision to use sulfur with organic grapes may lead one to believe that sulfur isn’t as uniformly evil, as the USDA and the general have framed it to be. 

Most winemakers will agree it is extremely difficult to make a stable and decent bottle of wine without the addition of sulfur.  Sulfur quite simply, at the right levels, will keep your wine fresh and stable with its anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial properties.   Some winemakers arduously cultivate organic grapes to achieve high levels of fruit and concentration, which will only be lost if the grapes and wine can not be kept fresh and free of disease.  Similarly, a chef in a kitchen using all the best organic ingredients, would still want to refrigerate the food and wash his hands before preparing the meal to ensure the food arrives fresh and hygienic.  Sulfur, used judiciously, can act like the refrigerator and hand sanitizer in the kitchen by eliminating oxygen from the environment and killing bacteria that finds its way onto the walls of the winery and the insides of oak barrels.

Sulfur and its aqueous derivative, sulfites, are generally misunderstood by the public.   It has been used for thousands of years in wine-making and is omnipresent in wine since fermentation naturally creates small traces of sulfites.  As a result, all wine, even most organic wine must disclose that it, “Contains Sulfites”.  This warning was implemented in response to those who have adverse reactions to sulfites, such as severe asthmatics, whose reaction can sometimes be fatal.   For the rest of us, there are currently limits already in place for restricting the over use of sulfur, which are significantly more stringent in the EU (160-210 ppm) for dry wines than in the US (350 ppm), and even more rigid for “wine made from organic grapes” (100 ppm).  Even when the maximum allowable amount of sulfur is used for “wine made from organic grapes”, the wine remains 99.99% organic and there is rarely any perception of sulfur on the palate, usually detected as a burnt match aroma. 

The eternal fall guy for over-drinkers’ maladies, sulfur is often blamed for wine-drinker’s headaches and hangovers.  Although this is possible, it is more likely that the real culprits are either too much alcohol or one of several substances only found in red wines.  Although the head-ache-inducing substance in red wine has yet to be identified by scientists with certainty, they know it cannot be sulfites.  With their naturally higher level of anit-oxidants, red wines inherently have lower levels of sulfur, making it impossible for “red-wine-only” headaches to be the result of too many sulfites.

After hoeing through the weeds of organic wine, I realized that not all organic grapes make organic wine, and not all organic wines with their lower sulfite levels are necessarily “better” for me.   When available, it is nice to have the option to choose the greener wine, with hopes of making the world a better place.  However, just like a diet low in salt, fat or carbs, a wine made with no added sulfites (aka organic wines) will often seem devoid of flavor in comparison to a wine with little to moderate amounts of sulfur.  On the other hand, green wines with just enough added sulfur to ensure a safe and delicious glass of wine without compromising personal health, the well-being of the planet or the wine’s flavor (aka wine from organic grapes), give me hopes of making my world, at the end of very long day, a better place.  

“I’ll have a decaf skinny dry grande café mocha with whipcream… Thanks!”   Huh?  Ok, so most of us don’t go to such lengths to order our coffee, but “tall, skim latte” or “venti decaf cappuccino” has become a part of our daily vernacular.  The proliferation of a coffeehouse culture has created “coffee talk”.  Simply put, “coffee talk” allows caffeine-addicts to get their fix, just the way they like it, usually in less than five words. 

Similarly, basic wine vocabulary, or “wine talk” can help wine-lovers succinctly communicate their preferences to restaurant servers or wine store personnel.  With such a multiplicity of wines nowadays, advice at the table or in the wine aisle has become paramount in the process of choosing wine.  Once the simple building blocks of “wine talk” are learned, a wine drinker can be more effective in describing the wines he or she prefers, ultimately replicating favorable experiences, while steering clear of unpleasant ones.  Of course, a tutorial in “wine talk” is a lot more fun when you’ve got the “real thing” (aka wine and other people), but here goes a brief introduction of three commonly used (and misused) words in “wine talk”.

Dry:  This is the level of sweetness, or the amount of sugar in a wine.  It is common for people to mistakenly describe fruit flavors as sweet, even though the wine has little to no sugar.  For instance, a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc may have tons of citrus and grapefruit flavors, but most likely will have very little to no sugar.  In fact, most wines on the shelf are dry.  Finally, do not confuse the use of “dry” with high tannin levels (see below).

Acidity:  High acidity is often described as tart, crisp, or sour.  White wines in general are naturally higher in acidity, while reds are usually lower, although also capable of high acidity.  Acidity is the key to many food & wine pairings.  Generally, you want to match acidities in your food and wine (i.e. high acidity tomato sauce with a high acidity wine).

Tannin:  Tannins are tasteless and only found in red wines. They produce an astringent drying sensation that can be irritating to some. When someone complains of a wine being “too dry”, he or she may be referring to its tannin level and the accompanying drying feeling (and not the sugar level as described above).  To better understand tannins, have a cup of joe or tea, without cream or sugar, and note the drying sensation.  Both are full of tannins.

Mastering the basics of “wine talk” make it possible for you to walk into a wine store and say, “I’m looking for a dry, red wine with good acidity and low tannins to go with my home-made spicy vegetable lasagna”.  Wine tastings can help you identify why you like or don’t like a wine (high/low sugar, acidity, tannins, etc.), so you can later communicate your preferences to others.  Before you know it, you will be navigating your way through a wine list as easily as flying through a Starbucks drive-through.

Many people believe that just because they can’t recite the top “Cult Cab” producers or describe a wine in the form of a sonnet, they know nothing about wine. Please! If you have a nose, a mouth and a brain, you already know the most important, undisputable fact – what you like. No one can tell you otherwise. When you take a sip, does your brain do somersaults and say “Mmm, give me more!”? Shrug and comment, “Eh, not great”? Or cringe and shriek, “Yuck!”?

The second most important, undeniable fact about wine is that no one can know it all. If you speak with any of the “Wine Greats”, they would undoubtedly agree that the more you delve into the understanding of wine, the more you realize you DON’T know. Wine is unique in that there are so many producers each year producing a whole new set of products for you to explore. With so many wines produced, there will always be someone who has tried a wine you haven’t. As a result, everyone can bring something to the table in the form of knowledge and experience, and if you’re lucky, literally, in the form of delicious bottle of wine.

Once you accept these two facts, wine becomes a whole lot more fun. Instead of feeling pretention or intimidation at the wine store or with your friends at the restaurant, you can relax. Look at every bottle of wine as an opportunity to learn, and perhaps, later share what you experienced with others.

Stay tuned for next month’s article on how to enhance your enjoyment of wine by pinpointing what you do and don’t like about wine. Simple vocabulary can help you better communicate your preferences to others so that you can replicate or avoid the experience in the future.

America… Home of baseball, apple pie… and a year-round holiday marketing blitz.  As soon as the trick-or-treaters leave, Turkeys start begging for reprieve.  Then Pilgrim figurines are replaced by the Three Kings.  And before Santa can return to the North Pole, New Year’s Eve tickets have already been sold.  Now, as the holiday hangover is just starting to subside, we are summoned for the next holiday ride… 

That’s right, Valentine’s Day is “just around the corner”. Instead of waiting for Hallmark cards to tell you when to celebrate those you love most, honor the relationships in your life by corking open a bottle of wine TODAY!  Every relationship is worthy of a different bottle of wine, whether you are commemorating your rock-n-roll single life or a melodic marriage.  Here are some things to consider when looking for that “perfect” bottle of wine for any kind of relationship in your life.

“Freebird” – Lynrd Skynyrd sang your anthem; you are single and content to live that way.  Unfortunately most bottles of wine are made to share since each standard-sized bottle contains over six 4-ounce glasses of wine.  Instead of completing the pre-requisite for a life of AA meetings (i.e. finishing the bottle alone) or drinking day-old wine, consider the alternative: half bottles. Half bottles are perfect for “a party of one” and are often over-looked as a viable option because of their lack of availability in stores and restaurants.  Don’t be afraid to ask for them, and if they don’t have them, ask them to order more.  As a customer, you ultimately drive a business’s wine selection, as long as they know what you want.

“Desperately Seeking Susan” – You’re single, but would rather not be.  Whether you are seeking a Susan or a Simon, a great place to meet other wine-lovers is at a wine bar.  Not only will you be able to try multiple wines, but you may also meet multiple dating prospects. 

“Girls (and Guys) Just Want to Have Fun” – You have a great friend and the thought of something romantic with this friend will never be an option.  Your wine selection should be simple and stress-free!  Go to your local wine store and get a good, cheap bottle of wine.  The Spanish wine section is good place to start.  Look for a bottle under $15, red or white, and flip to the back label.  If the bottle says the wine was selected by “Jorge Ordonez” or “Eric Solomon”, you are in for a treat.  These two men are well-known for selecting good-values from Spain.  Depending on your vice, sweet or salty, grab a block of cheese or a block of chocolate, settle in for a night of your favorite TV picks, and get ready to just have fun!

“I’ll Be There for You” – Even if you never saw one episode of “Friends”, you no doubt are familiar with its soundtrack by The Rembrandts. It conjures memories of the “Rachel and Ross” storyline of “Friends-turned-Lovers”. Just like our friends on “Friends”, you would like to reveal a crush you have on a good friend.  Make the evening special by spending a little more on wine than usual.  Quality usually improves with an increase in price.  You can get a great bottle of wine at $15, but your chances of getting a better bottle from the same region are higher if you spend $30. To help ease the nerves, follow the advice of an old Latin expression, “In Vino Veritas”, meaning “Wine Loosens the Tongue”.  A wine with higher alcohol content (13.5%-15%) may give you the liquid courage you need to spill your guts.  Just don’t overdo it, or you could find yourself spilling more than just feelings.  Some wines known for their high alcohol content are Napa Valley Cabernets, French Chateauneuf du Papes and Spanish Ribera del Dueros.  If you prefer whites, look for a Napa Chardonnay or a California Viognier. 

“Abracadabra” – Steve Miller perfectly describes the magical feeling when you’re in love.  Whether you were drinking a $2 or a $200 bottle of wine, both could seem equally delicious. The memorableness of your tasting experience can influence how much you like a wine.  This may explain why you loved a wine while sitting among the rolling hills of Tuscany, but the same wine at your kitchen table doesn’t taste quite as splendid as you remember.  Your “love dust” sprinkled on just about any wine will make it a good one, so don’t spend a fortune.  Head to the wines stacked at the front of the store where wine-buyers usually place their best deals for easy drinking wines.

“I Don’t Want to Fight” – Hopefully your fighting has not escalated to the antics of Ike and Tina Turner.  Regardless, in a situation of conflict it would be best to keep the alcohol levels low to avoid aggravating already-heightened emotions.  Although most white wines hover around 11%, some quality wines come in at or below this benchmark, including German Rieslings, Italian Moscato d’Astis, Portugese Vinho Verdes, and Spanish Txaolis (the first two tend to be sweet, while the last two will be dry).  Red wines will naturally be higher in alcohol, starting at about 12-13%.  Drink at your own risk! 

A Golden Record – Whether you have already celebrated your Golden 50-year anniversary or are aspiring to arrive there one day, you have shared life’s lifts and let downs with your significant other, and have proven you can conquer anything as long as you have each other.  For this one, you are on your own.  There is no body who knows the love of your life better than you.  Your intimate knowledge of your life partner allows you to personalize the selection by choosing a bottle you shared at a special restaurant, that has a label reminding you of one of his/her hobbies or comes from a place he/she has always wanted to visit.  Trust your instincts and choose the wine that you feel would be ideal.  Besides, those same instincts chose the perfect mate for you.

In spite of the ebb and flow of holiday marketing campaigns, remember that every day can be a Valentine’s Day when you select a bottle of wine with your loved ones in mind.

Before revealing Milwaukee’s new wine bars, I must pay homage to their predecessors. The Pizza Man at 1800 E North Ave, opened in 1970, is truly an under-appreciated treasure for wine enthusiasts in Milwaukee.  Pizza Man will open almost any bottle of wine regardless of price, as long as you order at least two glasses.  Never have I encountered such an amazing offer in any other city, including San Francisco, New York, Madrid, or anywhere in between.  Pizza Man is without a doubt the longest-standing and most unique wine bar in Milwaukee. 

Pizza Man aside I believe there is another veteran wine bar which truly deserves the title “Wine Bar”.  Unfortunately, with the increasing popularity of wine bars, many restaurants and bars decided to simply append the restaurant name with “& Wine Bar”.  This does not qualify it as real wine bar.  It’s like putting on a Packers jersey and saying you play professional football.  A real wine bar requires a dedicated staff who devote their time and knowledge to design and maintain an inventive, yet accessible wine list.  An establishment that does this quite well is Balzac at 1716 N. Arlington at Brady Street on Milwaukee’s East Side.

And if bubbles are your thing, just this winter, Milwaukee saw the opening of its first Cha